It was minis all round at this week’s off-schedule London Fashion Week show in Kensington, as Untold, the collaboration of newly emerging designers and platform for them to launch their careers, launched its Season V collection – a new group of designers alongside some familiar faces, to a crowded room of colourful and fashionably hip young Londoners.
Kicking off with a splash of bright colour, OnesCouture sent out male and female models clad in a creative assortment of folded and pleated striking orange tunics fashioned from felt and paper, teamed with black leggings.
The label was established in 2004 by Jeniene Scott and Alexander Olayiwola, who pooled their creative design skills to customize clothes for clients in the UK urban music scene, with the aim of producing distinctive and imaginative clothing for creative and artistic types.
Launching their ecologically and socially sustainable fashion and lifestyle brand to ‘explore modern multiculturalism’, Mononoko emphasised their goal to bridge the culture gap, with their Oriental inspired purple mini print bandeau dresses and tunic shifts, harem pants and loose tailored trousers. Their collection also featured checked pyjama-type trousers, tartan mini skirts and kimono belts, halter scarf tops and black mini dresses with Eastern print paneling alongside a pair of women’s pinstripe overalls.
Using colour, print, texture and embellishment to reflect converging cultures and inspirations, with many models sporting just one oversized ball earring, the collection is clearly influenced by African inspired prints and Oriental affluence.
Oyinda’s colour of choice was cream; as she showed an assortment of super short cream coats, embellished and beaded mini dresses with diaphanous paneling and shift dresses decorated with appliquéd swathes of material and dangling pieces of Perspex. She also showed a white leather mini skirt suit and a peplum top and fringed mini skirt, varying from her colour palette only to include a cream and grey skirt and panels of green and blue fabric used in a quilting effect in a sculptured short sleeved cream mini dress.
Using plenty of bright fuchsia, yellows, purples and greens, Pia Loves launched her new collection with a host of floaty floral maxi dresses, tie-dye halter dresses, kaftan mini dresses and dresses featuring empire-line busts coupled with handkerchief skirts. With embellishments including silver sequined trim, kimono belts and ribbon detail, and fabric featuring peacock and butterfly motifs, these were certainly outfits to make a statement in.
With dresses made up of one chiffon floral print overlaid on top of the other, draped animal print and brightly coloured Missoni inspired prints in one shoulder and halter styles, there was more than enough choice for anyone looking for a eye catching beach holiday wardrobe.
With an ethos that sets out to ‘push the boundaries governing structure and shape’, Maame Baryeh London’s eclectic collection included an iridescent pink shiny mini dress with lime green trim, a fuchsia strapless cloth dress, yellow and pink plaid draped loose mini dresses and lime green wide cropped linen trousers.
One particularly striking silhouette was a fuchsia and green tartan ruffled peplum jacket teamed with skinny grey trousers featuring red and pink patterned inside-out pockets hanging down.
With her Ma:LE menswear label including distressed purple knit jumpers and black and purple dogtooth jackets featuring huge oversized wooded buttons as well as red and green tartan trousers and white shirts cropped at the back, she certainly succeeded in her aim to inject fun and individuality into men’s fashion.
By: Valerie Tesler